San Diego started here. In 1769, Father Junipero Serra established the first Spanish mission in Alta California on the hill above what is now Old Town. The Presidio that protected it became San Diego’s first European settlement. For a century, this was the center of everything — the government, the commerce, the culture. Then Alonzo Horton built his “New Town” on the waterfront (today’s Gaslamp Quarter), and Old Town was left behind.
That abandonment preserved it. While the rest of San Diego was rebuilt and modernized, Old Town’s adobe buildings and dirt paths stayed largely intact. Today, Old Town San Diego State Historic Park preserves the 1820s-1870s settlement with original and reconstructed buildings, living history demonstrations, and a tangible sense of place that you can’t manufacture.
I’ll be honest — I avoided Old Town for years after moving to San Diego, assuming it was all sombreros-and-margaritas tourism. I was wrong. The State Historic Park is genuinely fascinating. El Agave restaurant has one of the best tequila collections in the world. And the Whaley House — officially recognized as haunted — is a weird, wonderful piece of California history. You just have to know where to look.
What Makes Old Town Different?
Old Town is the only place in San Diego where you can literally walk through the city’s origin story. The five original adobe buildings in the State Historic Park date to the 1820s-1850s. The Whaley House (1857) was San Diego’s first two-story brick building. The Estudillo House (1829) is one of the best-preserved Mexican-era adobes in California.
The transit hub is a practical advantage that most visitors don’t realize. Old Town Transit Center is where the MTS Trolley, Coaster commuter train, Amtrak Pacific Surfliner, and multiple bus routes converge. You can reach Coronado (via ferry bus connection), the beach communities (bus 8 to Pacific Beach), and downtown (trolley) without a car. Park here free and explore the city.
The Mexican food scene has two tiers. The tourist-facing restaurants on San Diego Avenue serve large, festive, competent Mexican food. But El Agave — hidden on the second floor of a building on San Diego Avenue — is a serious restaurant with 2,000+ tequilas and mole sauces that take days to prepare. It’s one of the best Mexican restaurants in California.
Where California Began
Adobe walls, wooden carts, and the ghost of 1769 — Old Town preserves the moment when San Diego's story started.
Where to Eat in Old Town?
El Agave — Upscale Mexican with a tequila bar that stocks 2,000+ bottles. The mole negro ($28) is transcendent. The margaritas are made with aged tequilas that most bars can’t afford. It’s hidden upstairs on San Diego Avenue, and most tourists walk right past it. $25-45/person.
Cafe Coyote — The biggest, most festive restaurant in Old Town. Handmade tortillas at the front window, a massive patio with mariachi music, and reliable Mexican food ($14-22 entrees). It’s touristy but well-executed. Good for groups and families.
Casa de Reyes — Beautiful courtyard setting inside the State Historic Park. Solid Mexican food ($14-22), enchiladas and fajitas, with a margarita menu. The courtyard on a warm evening is lovely.
Harney Sushi — Unexpected gem in Old Town — sustainably sourced sushi that’s among the best in San Diego. Rolls $12-20, omakase $65-95. It’s an outlier in a neighborhood dominated by Mexican food, and it’s excellent.
What to Do in Old Town?
Is the State Historic Park Worth It?
Yes, and it’s free. The park has five original adobe buildings, a blacksmith shop with demonstrations, a one-room schoolhouse, a printing press, and rotating exhibits. The visitor center has a 12-minute film about San Diego’s founding. Rangers give free guided tours at various times — check the schedule at the visitor center. Budget 1-2 hours.
Should You Visit the Whaley House?
The Whaley House (1857) is listed by the US Commerce Department as a “genuinely haunted house.” Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the house is a fascinating piece of history — it served as San Diego’s courthouse, theater, and granary. Daytime tours ($13/adult) focus on history. Evening tours ($25) lean paranormal. Both are worth the time.
What About Presidio Hill?
Walk or drive up to Presidio Hill above Old Town for panoramic views and the Serra Museum (a 1929 Spanish Colonial building, $10 admission). The hill is where Father Serra founded Mission San Diego in 1769. The park around the museum is free, peaceful, and uncrowded — a pleasant contrast to the busier streets below.
Are Ghost Tours Fun?
Several companies run evening ghost tours through Old Town ($20-25, 90 minutes). They cover the Whaley House, the cemetery, and various haunted sites with historical context and storytelling. Even for skeptics, the tours are entertaining and informative. Book online for the 8pm or 9pm departures.
The Whaley House at Dusk
California's most haunted house catches the fading light — 170 years of history, drama, and something else entirely.
Scott’s Pro Tips
- Getting There: I-5 or I-8 to Old Town exit. The Old Town Transit Center has free parking, making it the best park-and-ride in the city. Trolley Green Line from downtown (5 min). Coaster and Amtrak also stop here.
- Parking Strategy: Free lot at the transit center. Free CalTrans lot off Taylor Street (signed, often overlooked). These fill on weekends by 11am — come early. Metered parking on San Diego Avenue is $1.50/hr.
- Skip the Tourist Traps: The shops selling sombreros and hot sauce on San Diego Avenue are for tourists. The actual State Historic Park is behind them. Walk past the shops, enter the park, and you'll find the real Old Town.
- El Agave Tip: Look for the entrance on San Diego Avenue — it's on the second floor above a souvenir shop. Go upstairs and you're in one of the best Mexican restaurants in California. The tequila flights ($25-40) are educational and delicious.
- Best Time: Weekday mornings for the State Historic Park (quiet, rangers available for questions). Weekend evenings for the restaurant scene. October for ghost tours (Día de los Muertos events). Summer Saturday nights have the most energy.
- Transit Hub Hack: Park free at Old Town Transit Center, then take the trolley to the Gaslamp ($2.50), bus 8 to Pacific Beach, or the Coaster to North County. It's the best free parking-to-transit connection in San Diego.
Old Town rewards the visitor who looks past the surface. Yes, there are tourist shops and oversized margaritas. But beneath that is the actual birthplace of California — adobe walls that have stood for 200 years, a haunted house that’s been terrifying visitors since 1857, and a tequila bar with 2,000 bottles hidden above a souvenir shop. Old Town is San Diego’s origin story, and it’s still being told.