Del Mar has a simple, famous motto: “Where the Turf Meets the Surf.” Bing Crosby coined it when he co-founded the Del Mar Racetrack in 1937, and 90 years later it still captures the place perfectly. This is where San Diego’s money and San Diego’s coastline come together — thoroughbred racing, oceanfront dining, and a village atmosphere that feels more like the Hamptons than Southern California.
I’ve been coming to the races at Del Mar since my first summer in San Diego. There’s nothing quite like sitting in the grandstand on a July afternoon, betting $2 on a horse with a funny name, and watching the Pacific sparkle beyond the far turn. The track is beautiful, the crowd is dressed up, and the Friday post-race concerts on the infield are one of San Diego’s great summer traditions.
But Del Mar is more than its racetrack. The village along Camino Del Mar is one of the prettiest downtown strips in the county — art galleries, upscale boutiques, and restaurants that range from the Michelin-starred Addison to casual sandwich shops. The beach is wide, clean, and dramatically less crowded than anything south of here. And the Torrey Pines State Reserve starts right at Del Mar’s southern edge.
What Makes Del Mar Different?
Del Mar operates in a different gear than the rest of San Diego. It’s quieter, wealthier, and more curated. The village feels like it was designed for walking — small enough to cover in an hour, with enough quality shops and restaurants to fill an afternoon. There’s no rowdy nightlife, no chain restaurants, and no boardwalk carnival rides. Just a beautiful coast, excellent food, and a historic racetrack.
The racing season (mid-July through early September) transforms the town. Hotels book up months ahead. The hat-and-sundress crowd fills the grandstand. Opening Day is a social event that rivals any in Southern California. But even off-season, Del Mar’s charm holds — the beach empties out, the restaurants have tables available, and the village is peaceful.
Where Turf Meets Surf
Thoroughbreds thunder past the grandstand as the Pacific shimmers beyond the turn — Del Mar racing is sports, fashion, and California sun in one perfect package.
Where to Eat in Del Mar?
Addison — San Diego’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, located at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar. Chef William Bradley’s contemporary French tasting menus ($175+) are extraordinary. Jacket required. Reserve 3-4 weeks ahead. This is a destination restaurant by any standard.
Market Restaurant + Bar — Farm-to-table with impeccable sourcing. The menu changes daily based on what’s available. Entrees $35-60. The truffle fries are legendary. One of the best restaurants in San Diego County, period.
Jake’s Del Mar — Right on the sand with ocean views from every seat. Solid seafood ($25-45 entrees), an excellent happy hour ($8 cocktails, $2 oysters, 3-5pm), and the best sunset dining location in Del Mar. Reserve an ocean-view table for dinner.
Pacifica Del Mar — Pacific Rim seafood on the bluffs with panoramic coastal views. Entrees $30-55. The fish preparations are creative and the cocktail program is strong. Friday evenings are lively.
Board & Brew — Del Mar’s no-frills sandwich counter. Massive sandwiches ($10-14) with homemade bread. The turkey and pesto is a local obsession. Quick, cheap, and perfect for a beach picnic.
Where to Stay in Del Mar?
Luxury: L’Auberge Del Mar — The premier hotel in the village. Ocean views, spa, pool terrace, and you can walk to everything on Camino Del Mar. $400-800/night.
Resort: Fairmont Grand Del Mar — Mediterranean-style resort with a Tom Fazio golf course, spa, and Addison restaurant. Not actually beachfront (it’s inland), but the grounds are stunning. $500-1000+/night.
Mid-Range: Del Mar Inn — Clean, comfortable, no-frills hotel on Camino Del Mar. Walking distance to the beach and village. $180-350/night. The best value in Del Mar.
What to Do in Del Mar?
Should You Go to the Races?
If you’re in San Diego during racing season (mid-July through early September), absolutely. General admission is $6-10. You don’t need to know anything about horse racing — half the fun is people-watching, betting small, and soaking in the atmosphere. Friday evening concerts on the infield after the last race are free with racetrack admission. Opening Day (mid-July) is the big social event — dress up.
Is the Beach Good?
Del Mar City Beach is wide, clean, and uncrowded by San Diego standards. The stretch south of 15th Street allows dogs year-round (September-June off-leash, summer on-leash). Free access, parking lots $5-10 in summer. For dramatic coastal scenery, walk south toward Torrey Pines State Beach.
San Dieguito Lagoon
This restored wetland on Del Mar’s north side is a hidden gem for birding and nature walks. A boardwalk trail winds through the lagoon — free, easy, and surprisingly rich with wildlife. Herons, egrets, and hawks are common. Best at dawn or late afternoon.
Village by the Sea
Art galleries and ocean-view restaurants line Camino Del Mar as the coastal village glows in the warm light of a San Diego evening.
Scott’s Pro Tips
- Getting There: I-5 north to Via de la Valle exit (for racetrack) or Del Mar Heights Rd (for village). The Coaster commuter train from downtown to Solana Beach station ($5.50) puts you a short walk from the village. No direct bus service.
- Race Day Tips: Gates open at noon, first race at 2pm. Bet the $2 exacta boxes for maximum excitement per dollar. The stretch run side has the best views. Bring cash — betting windows are faster. Dress is smart casual; hats and sundresses are the tradition.
- Parking: Village street parking is free with 2-hour limits. Beach lots are $5-10 in summer, free off-season. Racetrack parking is $10-20 depending on the lot. On race days, consider the Coaster train to avoid parking entirely.
- Budget Strategy: Del Mar skews expensive but the beach is free and Board & Brew serves $12 sandwiches. Happy hour at Jake's (3-5pm, $2 oysters) is the best deal in town. Visit off-season (October-June) for lower hotel rates and empty beaches.
- Best Time: Racing season (July-September) for the full experience. October-November for empty beaches and warm weather. Spring (March-May) brings wildflowers on the bluffs. Winter is quiet but the village restaurants stay excellent.
- Local Secret: The blufftop path from Powerhouse Park north to the lagoon is a beautiful 2-mile walk that most visitors miss. Start at the park, walk north along the cliffs, and end at the lagoon. Free, flat, and gorgeous at sunset.
Del Mar is San Diego at its most refined. It’s not for everyone — if you want boardwalk carnival rides and $3 tacos, head to Mission Beach. But if you want a beautiful beach town that does everything with taste and care, from its racetrack to its restaurants to its village shops, Del Mar is as good as it gets on the California coast.